Candle 79 is no brown rice joint; it’s an elegant vegan restaurant that could give any meat-eating interloper a satisfying dining experience.
Long considered one of the gold standards of American vegan cuisine, it’s highly regarded for its array of dishes and practice of marrying ingredients and techniques from diverse cuisines. The delicious hummus appetizer has a generous sprinkling of smoked paprika and the creamy spread comes with grilled paratha bread and olives. Among the salads, the vegetable-stuffed avocado with quinoa and toasted pumpkin seeds is a standout. Entrees tend to feature hearty grains. The tempeh vegetable tamale was disappointing because of its blandness, and the chocolate mole sauce did nothing to enliven it. On the other hand, the spring vegetable risotto was magnificent. It’s served with a cashew cream that complements its crisp, chewy texture, and is the kind of dish that keeps luring you back for another bite.
Of the two desserts I sampled, the chocolate peanut bliss was my favorite. Encased in a chocolate shell, the chocolate and peanut butter mousse achieved a rich, creamy consistency without the usual eggs and cream. The live berry crumble was less spectacular and slightly mushy, and the coconut-ginger ice cream didn’t add much punch.
Candle 79 is a homey, welcoming place to eat with earth tone décor, plush-seated booths, and service that is delivered with equal helpings of enthusiasm and attention. Located in a comfortable two-story town house in New York’s upper east side, it draws a happy crowd of couples, families, and tattooed young vegans dining with visiting parents. – JESSICA COPEN
